When I made my first greeting this morning it took a moment to arrive at the word. Tere. Hello. Tere. It is a gentle sound, a soft way of entering into someone’s awareness.… Continue reading

Chocolaterie Pierre, Tallinn

In Estonia I am eating the most chocolate since, I think, those few days in Bariloche, Argentina. Velvet sofas, red silk tablecloths, thick coffee and rich, dark chocolate: Chocolaterie Pierre has been the… Continue reading

Faces of Riga

Look up and you’ll find a different type of Rigan that populates the city: the expressive faces of 750+ Jugenstil buildings spread throughout  the city.

In Pictures: Malmö Festival Food Market


The only thing that comes as close to good as calling London my home is returning to London and slipping back in as if I’d never been away. I arrived back last week,… Continue reading


I was looking through my camera’s viewfinder at yet another Gaelic roadsign: Fàilte gu Port Rìgh, when I stopped short of taking the picture. I wondered why it was so important to me that… Continue reading

Loch Leven Castle

“Where do you live?” The man selling tickets asked me. “Well, I’m from here but I live in the U.S. now.” “It’s just where you live that matters,” he said, ticking the box… Continue reading

Edinburgh Nights

Back in the day, Edinburgh was ours. Last night—our first night out in the city for many years—we saw how far Edinburgh had slipped out of our grasp. We made our way up… Continue reading

Photo Essay: King Kamehameha Day 2010


I would have liked the mule ride. As the plane swooped along the coast, I saw the zigzagging trail sloping down the cliff face. It’s a two-hour ride each way but April’s rain… Continue reading